Matfer Bourgeat carbon steel frying pan

What it is good at

• Being lighter than cast iron at the same size
• Taking a season quickly and releasing eggs well once seasoned
• Sliding under a grill or into an oven

Check before you buy

• Steel thickness: thin pans warp on high heat, thicker ones cost more and last
• Whether the handle is welded (harder to replace) or riveted
• The initial seasoning routine the maker recommends

Who it is not for

Anyone who wants a pan that can go in the dishwasher, or who will not season it in the first week.

Carbon steel is the professional kitchen default because it combines a light pan with a surface that behaves like non-stick once seasoned. The trade is maintenance: dry it on the hob every time.

The seasoning routine is short: scrub off the factory coating, heat it, wipe a thin film of oil, repeat a few times. After that it improves on its own.