All-Clad tri-ply stainless sauté pan

What it is good at

• Acidic sauces that would strip a cast-iron seasoning
• Deglazing and building a pan sauce
• Going in the dishwasher and the oven without a ritual

Check before you buy

• Whether the core is full-clad or only a disc in the base — disc bases warp on induction
• Lid fit and whether a replacement lid is sold
• Handle stay-cool design, which matters at 200 °C

Who it is not for

Anyone expecting fried eggs to slide out without fat; that is a seasoned pan job.

A tri-ply pan is aluminium sandwiched in stainless: the aluminium spreads heat, the stainless is inert and tough. It is the pan to buy if you want one that behaves the same on year one and year ten.

The catch is technique. Stainless needs the pan hot before the food goes in, and it needs fat. Once that is habit, it is the most versatile pan in the cupboard.